The first thing you've got to get right is the alignment. Check that by measuring the distance from swingarm to wheel on both sides. You can also put a straight edge against the rear tyre like a scaffold tube etc, then check that it's equi-distant from the front tyre front and rear.
Once you've got the wheel straight it's then a case of finding the tight spot on the chain. Do that by rotating the wheel slowly and pushing the bottom run of the chain up and down with your finger. The tight spot is the point you'll adjust the tension at from now on, so make a mark on the chain sidewall, ideally at 3 o'clock around the rear sprocket to find it easily each time.
You tension the chain there because if you used a looser point the chain would be like a bowstring at the tight spot and would wear really rapidly. All you've got to do then to get the tension right is to make sure you adjust each side by exactly the same amount and double check it with your ruler as you go.
Less haste, more speed and you should be fine.
thats really good advice BB and nice to see on here, I myself havent tried it as im too scared to mess it up on my bike so I send it round the garage and pay to have it done.
RustyKnight In: Newton Aycliffe
Posts: 2462
Karma:
Great thread BB,
My manual says there should be 40mm of slack between the chain and underside of my swingarm at mid point but even with the chain loose there's barely 25mm so should I cut a hole in my swingarm or just have the chain hanging like a pair of baggy undercrackers??
RustyKnight In: Newton Aycliffe
Posts: 2462
Karma:
No need to remove a link BB i've still got loads of adjustment left but there isn't room between the chain and swingarm for a 40mm gap unless I leave it loose so either the manual is wrong or there's summat drastically amiss with my bike!
I know if my chain is loose and needs adjusting, 1-its hangs low and 2-it clunks wen I change gear.
I would like to be able to do more maintenance and checks on both my bikes but I would need some1 there to guide me and sgow me the correct ways to to everything or I would be worried about the saftey of my bike as I were riding it
If a chain's reached the end of it's a djustment it isn't a good idea to remove a link anyway.
If it's worn that much, replace it.
RK - most chains will be set on the stand, but this allows for some tension being taken up with the weight of a rider. ie 40mm will probably less than that, under running conditions.
Don't forget to clean and lube the chain regularly. Be careful with what you clean it with. Ionce used brake and chain cleaner and ruined a perfectly good chain by washing all the grease out of it stupid me wont do that again.
I tend to run with my chain on the slack side. So if the manual reckons (for example) 15-25mm slack, I'll run at 25mm.
This helps with gear changes and also doesn't risk limiting suspension movement.
And Scottoilers rule. Nearly 30,000 miles on my current chain, adjusted twice, cleaned (properly with paraffin and a brush) only three or four times. Will probably need a new C&S kit at the next service in about 5,000 miles, but I can live with replacements every 30-35k!
Agree with the G about scotoilers. Pay for themselves time and again. Gone are the days of "baking" a chain in a tin of chain grease (remember those?)
Remember a tight chain can place huge strain on the output shaft and can wear bearings/seals prematurely.
40mm may sound a lot rusty but bear in mind when you sit on the bike the swingarm travels through an arc ( when output shaft and axle align that is the arcs furthest point) therefore a chain normaly runs at altering tightness during normal running. The manufacturers slack is a happy medium.
RustyKnight In: Newton Aycliffe
Posts: 2462
Karma:
Cheers for the advice lads but with the bike sat on the centre stand and swingarm hanging free there isn't a 40mm gap available to measure, it's more like 30 so I guess it's down to a bit of trial and error!
on my vfr its a case of loosning one 17mil nut putting a Cspanner on hub pulling up, hey presto ,no fiddling with alingment screws. remembering to tightning 17mil nut or your in the sh;;;.lol. give mysel 1/4 -1/2 inch play .millimeters??
brad_the_impaler In: Saundersfoot, Pe
Posts: 40
Karma:
I ride all year round and my chain was taking a hammering. Plus the fact when it's dark at four in the afternoon and peeing down the last thing I want to be doing is cleaning my chain. Was going to get a Scottoiler but came across a Tutoro chain oiler which was a fraction of the price, does a cracking job and was simple to fit even for a muppet like me.
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