I bought the bike on ebay(bargain?) just after Christmas, and after fitting new can and mirror, had a good 3 months problem free riding. . . and then the problem started!
I jetwashed it (mistake?) before taking it in for MOT, and it started to mis / stutter on the way in to garage. They had it for 3 weeks plus, and after new tyres, rear shock rebuild and £400 bill, which wasnt as bad as it couldve been, I got it back.
It was still hesitating when i opened the throttle, and it was running on reserve. I put Redex in tank, filled it up, went for a 90 mile ride, and it got slightly better. I took the tank off, removed tap, cleand filter and replaced. checked all hoses for blockages, kinks etc. . . still stuttering. Have checked HT leads and coils for water, they all seem dry and good connections. Have drained carbs, cleaned filler cap vent, tried running it on Prime, and even with filler cap open and it still starts first time, warms up well, but when i go to take off it hesitates all through gears and at all revs!!! . . . Starting to do my head in!
Anybody got any ideas??
Saying that, it could be something daft like a sensor on it's way out or something.
I had a problem with my Saab when I first got it which turned out to be a sensor. Everything would be fine and then this sensor would send a dodgy reading to the ecu, which in turn thought there was something seriously wrong and instantly drop to "safe running" mode. Which basically meant the turbos would instantly shut down and torque, power and revs were drastically artificially limited.
Just what you need when you're half way through overtaking a lorry on the A61 with another car coming the other way!
I have a 900 Sprint which is mechanically similar. For information, it uses carbs and so won't have much in the way of sensors. This started playing up by not running properly and backfiring, particularly after a wash with a bucket and domestic hose pipe. The people "looking after" it after a lot of messing about put it down to a coil failing. They replaced it with an aftermarket coil which proved to be useless and eventually replaced it with a genuine Triumph one. This cured the problem at a stroke. So, check out your coils, and if one of them is failing, don't try to save money with a universal one. Use the genuine article.
Dont know about the Trophys but the early T509s and T595s were notorious for weird issues with corrosion in the earth block in the wiring loom. As far as I know the earlier bikes didn't have the block, the earths all ran together in the loom and were spliced into one heavy cable that terminates behind the alternator mounting bolt. Later bikes ran all the earths to a large white multiplug bolted to the frame just below the battery box check for corrosion on the pins if you have this style of earth. It's worth checking as poor earth on these bikes can cause all sorts of weird problems.
I had an similar problem with my vmax after pressure hosing it at my brother-in-laws workshop (he's a diesel mac)it started , misfired and would'nt rev over 5500 , we found the plugs were water logged....we blew the water out with compressed air, dried the plugs and plug wells and the problem was sorted . Dont know if this can help cos i cant think that you'd not done it already.good luck
I started reading this thinking this sounds familiar!!! & yep I think my Gn125 is you're TT900's 'ickle sister cos that's exactly the problem i've got - even after trying a new coil, a new plug & a new carb!!!! GRRRRRRRrrrrr ...however I hadn't washed mine....
Thanks Cataraptor, Got a mate coming on saturday to check the coils for me cuz thats his idea too, so we'll soon know, and prof - while were at it will check earth as well. . . . excalibur, looks like a busy Saturday for me, Plugs havent come out yet (yes i know that shouldve been one of my first checks, but been busy!) but will certainly get at them too! And Holmfirthgirl . . . what can i say? If/when i get her fixed up i'll drop you a line! Good luck!
Thanks everyone, gives me some more things to play with.
I'd certainly look long and hard at the HT side of the ignition. Even though you've already checked it out, it doesn't cost too much for new plugs and leads. As for the coil(s), I had a niggling problem with my Seat car that was eventually traced to a hairline crack in the coil casing that was letting water in, but it was the kind of thing that was almost impossible to spot. We fixed the problem first by substituting a known good coil, and when that did the trick went over the old one very closely indeed until we found the fault.
Thanks Wills. After checking fuel delivery, Im now thinking electrics, after reading folks comments on here, Saturday will be spent checking plugs, HT leads, coils and other wiring. Got the bike off ebay with no paperwork at all(except log book and current MOT) so not sure how its (possibly not) been maintained. So its plenty of tea, and wiring diagrams out!!
Let us all know how you get this sorted Slidy,i for one wont use a high pressure hose on an older bike again , i'm currently riding a Triumph daytona 900 93' model and she's being good to me , but i know very little about the triple motor...i would still like to get the manual for this bike to learn more.
You want to ask Dennis Trophy1996...sure he will help...hes always been a great fan of Triumphs and has had a few in his time..should see his big bitch of a triumph now (well thats what dennis calls her LOL!)
i am with exc on the pressure hose issue, they are a pain in the arse, they produce so much pressure that the water can go into places we dont even know exist, what i do after washing my bikes is, i have a small compressor and attatch a air pipe on it and get in all the crooks and crannies and blow the water out, hope this helps
Amen to that Ian , as i said 'older bikes' , the new models are pretty well sealed up to water exposure like a divers watch ,not so the older bikes they have hairline cracks due to metal fatigue , rubber erosion ( refer Wills ) and seals cracking etc . Normal wet riding wont expose these gremlins but a high pressure hose will . I'm not mechanic , but first hand experience taught me a lesson !
HFG , you must really have your bike taken for a diagnostic check , if the dealer cant do it and its still under warranty just tell them you will take the bike to a reputable auto lec ... sometimes a lead is snapped off inside the insulation and impossible too see without a dia. check , when the engine is warm the insulation expands = no contact , when its cooled down the insulation contracts = full contact .....you may spend a fortune while the solution is the price of a single lead .
thanx Bikerchick for the info...i will try to contact Dennis Trophy for a manual for my Daytona as well..cant do without a workshop manual/spare parts list.
Ok here we go.
Wiring from HT leads, fuses, earth block, and any connectors I found along the way checked and all seem ok with no corrosion and all good contacts. Coils(gill) checked with Ohm meter. primary and secondary windings all within limits, Pick up coil the same, though I cant find anywhere that can check them under load(rolling road required). Only one plug checked so far, until I get the correct plug spanner, but that was good, and going by the condition of HT lead connectors I dont think there is a problem with the other two.
Off to bikers world this afternoon to get spanner, and pick mechanics brain, and hopefully putting it all back together this evening and out for a ride tomorrow.
Watch this space!!!
Sorry Exc, no good news here. Its still running as smooth as sandpaper! I've done as much as my limited knowledge (never even had a tank off before) and nerve will allow, so its time to find a fixer. Been busy phoning independent bike menders, but so far nobody 'has right testing equipment' or are 'too busy to fit it in' so it looks like a main dealer repair centre unless anyone could suggest anywhere in West midland area?
Thankfully still got the W650 to play on, but need this ready for Hols.
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